Portillo
ce waterfalls around Portillo
Contributions by E. Mondragón, Ignacio Bravo, Armando Moraga
 Portillo in winter. Walking on the lake. |
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Location: Portillo is 100 miles from Santiago or approximately a 2 hours drive. Near to Argentina border it is also possible go to climb in Penitentes. In order to access to Penitentes you have to get the passport stamps to leave the country at the border post Los Libertadores. The drive from Santiago is very scenic. Both airport and ground transfers are also available upon request from Portillo Tours & Travel (56-2) 2630606.
The season is usually from July to September but ice may persisted until the end of October. Besides the waterfall ice a big amount of peaks can be acceded from there (Cerro Iglesias, Alto Los Leones or Parva del Inca). Be aware of avalanches are a real hazard therefore use weather bulletins (www.portillo.com) and choose reasonable objectives.
Access: La Clasica can be acceded by walking up under lift and traverse to the right (expect 1.30 hour in average conditions). To access to Area Paleolitica ski or walk across the east end of the lake –not more than 30 minutes- (or stick to the trail in the rocks if it is not frozen) and in the end of the lake walk up a big gull at least one hour. A minimum of 3 hours when breaking trail and about 2 hours with good snow conditions.
Routes: Ice and mix climbing routes. A lot of new routes are waiting to be ascended.
Grades: Currently WI3-WI4+ up to 4 pitches. And the first mix climbing route set up in Chile: Drytoolsaurus Rex (M10).
Altitude: From 3200m to near 3800m with nice views of Aconcagua. Equipment: Mix route and some rappels are bolted, but be prepared to leave some rappel anchors.
 Route Buraccio- Delgado |
 Diego Vergara starting first pitch of Buraccio/Delgado (WI 4+) |
 Paleolitico Sector (with Drytoolsaurus Rex in the cave) |
 Armando in the thin curtain of Buraccio-Delgado |
 El Manto (WI4), opened by D. Vergara, G. Linde, V. Marinkovic, J.P.Yanez, I. Bravo on 05.06.05 |
 Diego Vergara in third pitch of El Manto. |
El Manto:
Datos acceso: se debe cruzar el control aduanero chileno, donde se debe pedir una autorización el Policía Internacional. Uno debe llegar hasta antes del túnel y dejar el auto en las oficinas del MOP que hay ahí (la misma aproximación para el cerro Iglesias). En dirección hacia Argentina la cascada se encuentra a mano izquierda. La aproximación desde el auto es de más o menos 45 min. La cascada se puede rapelear para el descenso o hacer un rodeo por atrás y bajar caminando por un canalón.
Buraccio-Delgado:
Buraccio/Delgado WI 4 o WI4+, 3 largos, 160m aprox. Tuvo su segunda repetición el año 2005.
10/10/05 en primavera por: Felipe Olea, Diego Vergara, Armando Moraga en condiciones de hielo regulares (hielo granuloso con costras sobre nieve) , con caida de avalancha por la izquierda de la cascada, cortina delicada con fractura al final de esta, clima templado. Aproximación 60 minutos hasta la base (45º pendiente), preguntar siempre en hotel portillo por peligro de avalanchas, llevar unos clavos en el rack, intentarla en condiciones frias.
