Granito de Rengo
RENGO
See topos… See climbing photos…
The valley above Rengo has a number of fabulous granite cliffs high up to 600 m. In former times some 15 years ago, this was the main and the best climbing area of the Central Cordillera. Francisco «Pancho» Arias and Waldo «Mota» Farías, the best climbers of Chile in those times put up (up!) most of the routes, which have been the most difficult in the region for years. A good white road left you at 5 min. from the rocks. Although private land, there were no access restrictions. Some say after a wild fire caused by careless people, the owners closed the site, strictly denying access to anybody. In addition, the copper mine project higher up in the valley which used to maintain the road, has been abandonned and so it was swept away by the occasional floods. In 2001, climbers began to ‘infiltrate’ again. Eduardo Mondragón and Martin Waldhoer opened the new route ‘Paraiso Perdido’ on the Solarium face. After this, climbers could access again and opened some 15 routes more, some of them among the best of the whole country. Many people came to Rengo or tried it at least. We had to take this Rengo section off-line to prevent the area from becoming crowded. Eventually, in 2006, the owner got fed up and the party was over again. What a pity!
We now put these pages on-line again. Chilean climbers! Look how much rock there is in this country – it is supposedly yours! – and how less you are allowed to access…
Abajo: Pared del Solarium next to the road with ca. 10 routes up to 10 pitches. Below: El Pilar 5.11a
The big traverse of the left route (5.11)
Pepe during the First ascent of Viernes 13 (5.9)
Condor looking at potential food.
See routes and topos…
See climbing photos…
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| Untouched faces high up to 600m | Torre Norte, 500m of finest granite. Only 5 routes are done. |
RENGO – Topos
Pared del Solarium (click to enlarge, 500k):
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1. “Don Kiko” : 6p. until 5.11b (5.10c A0), 22 bolts, many small cams needed, rappel down. Route opened by Caspar Ochsner (Switzerland), Ruth Baldinger and José Aravena. Named in honor La Pandina’s Caretaker.
2. Los Afeitados (Juan Montes et al.): 8p. until 5.9, not recommended
3. Adherencia, 5.10c, W. Farias et al.
4. El Principito, (F. Arias, A.Boitano): nice route until 5.9, impressive dihedral, take micronuts
5. Adherencia, 5.10c, W. Farias et al.
6. Los Teluros, (F. Arias): 2p. 5.9, 5.10a, friction
7. La Agujereada, (M.Waldhoer, W. Farías, J. Edwards 02/04, continuación en 02/06), 2p. 5.10b, 5.10d. 8 bolts + 1 nudo, opened from below with cliff.
8. Rien ne va plus, (M. Waldhoer, W. Farías, 20.02.08), variante al pilar, con tentativa frustrada (8a)
9. Cinco nueve no mas! (W. Farías et al., a vista: M. Waldhoer), adherencia crítica, cotizable entre 5.9 y 5.11d, según gusto…
10. El Pilar (F. Arias, W. Farias), 10p. until 5.11a, occasional bolts, cams, small cracks, fantastic route
11. Paraiso Perdido (E.Mondragón, M.Waldhoer, J. Edwards 01/03 + 02/04), 9p. until 5.11a, one passage A0, 5.10c obl., 3 bolts, beautiful thin cracks with occasional dihedrals, slabs and roofs. Rappel down (take slings and knots until 9mm)
12. Ruta francesa, 5.10d, dura de proteger
13. ? 5.11a
14. ?
15. Tentativa frustrada en roca dubiosa, 5.7 (W.Farías, M.Waldhoer, 02/06)
16. Raya Peluda (Felipe Gonzalez Donoso) 02/05, 2p. 5.7, opened from below, solo.
17. Viernes 13 (M.Waldhoer, J. Edwards 02/04), 7p., 5.9, salida 5.11b evitable, excellent route with finger cracks and slabs. Opened from below. Special effects: Rappels partly from jammed knots.
18. Al Azar, 5.9, (W. Farías, M. Waldhoer, 20.02.08)
19. Ratón Antrax, 5.10c, (W. Farías, M. Waldhoer, 20.02.08, from above)
Torre Norte (click to enlarge, 125k):
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All climbs are reported to be demanding and not always easy to protect. |
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 Topo del Gran Diedro (right) y Colegio de las Niñas virgenes (left) (click to enlarge) |
 Final roof of Paraiso Perdido, the most demanding free-climb passage |
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 Click image to enlarge (175kB)Topo and fotos from Francisco Rojas, Dario Arancibia, Rodrigo Fica, Felipe Gonzalez D. |
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RENGO
See topos… See climbing photos…
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Left: Pared del Solarium next to the road with ca. 10 routes up to 10 pitches. Below: El Pilar 5.11a |
The valley above Rengo has a number of fabulous granite cliffs high up to 600 m. In former times some 15 years ago, this was the main and the best climbing area of the Central Cordillera. Francisco «Pancho» Arias and Waldo «Mota» Farías, the best climbers of Chile in those times put up (up!) most of the routes, which have been the most difficult in the region for years. A good white road left you at 5 min. from the rocks. Although private land, there were no access restrictions. Some say after a wild fire caused by careless people, the owners closed the site, strictly denying access to anybody. In addition, the copper mine project higher up in the valley which used to maintain the road, has been abandonned and so it was swept away by the occasional floods. In 2001, climbers began to ‘infiltrate’ again. Eduardo Mondragón and Martin Waldhoer opened the new route ‘Paraiso Perdido’ on the Solarium face. After this, climbers could access again and opened some 15 routes more, some of them among the best of the whole country. Many people came to Rengo or tried it at least. We had to take this Rengo section off-line to prevent the area from becoming crowded. Eventually, in 2006, the owner got fed up and the party was over again. What a pity! We now put these pages on-line again. Chilean climbers! Look how much rock there is in this country – it is supposedly yours! – and how less you are allowed to access… |
The big traverse of the left route (5.11) |
Pepe during the First ascent of Viernes 13 (5.9) |
| Condor looking at potential food. |
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See routes and topos…
See climbing photos…
|
|
| Untouched faces high up to 600m | Torre Norte, 500m of finest granite. Only 5 routes are done. |
